Broome is an out of the way
place. It is as remote as it
is truly special. A town that
was built on the history and
chase of the Pearl shell has
become a bustling
multicultural cosmopolitan
town . Some say an expensive
over rated waste of time, we
say, can't wait to get back
there again. |
| |
|
|
|
|
"Woggy"
Minshull outside his one stop
shop.
|
Karen
couldn't wait to hit the warm
cable beach
|
| |
|
|
Broome is the start of many
peoples track into the
Kimberley's. This is evident
by the amount of 4WD's that
are in town having a look see
and gearing up for the push
North. Its also the ending
destination for those coming
the other way that started
their Kimberley quest in
Kununurra or Halls creek. This
also very evident by the
amount of knackered 4WD's on
tray trucks, hoists and garage
floors.
My mate Warren Minshull or
"Woggy" as he likes to be
known owns and runs Minshull
mechanical and 4X4 Mega store
in Broome. "Woggy" also owns
Broome towing and recovery.
Woggy could write a 10 volume
book on what he says comes and
goes from his premises. Known
also as the "Kimberley Kid"
Woggy was born and bred up
here and there is not much he
doesn't know about either. He
is also the Black Widow
Kimberley distributor. If you
are in town and need help or
advice on your vehicle, do
yourself a favour and go and
see Warren. Go and see his
back yard where you will see
all the peoples 4WD's that
thought they could cross a
creek somewhere before the
tide came in only to end up
bogged and under water. !!
Tides up here can run up to 10
meters in difference between
ebb and full.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
Streeter's
Jetty in China Town
|
Fishing's
pretty good too !!
|
| |
|
If you like sun, the sea,
magnificent beaches, fishing
and an atmosphere that would
chill out an ice cube, Broome
is for you.
There are many ways to do and
see Broome and surrounds. Many
people fly in, stay at a
resort of their choice ( There
is plenty of resorts to choose
from and more go up each year)
and pretty much see what they
can on foot or by hired
transport.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
Fishing
Again !!
|
Broome
Museum
|
| |
|
|
Don't get me wrong, there's
plenty to see that way. A
night out at Sun Pictures,
days lazing on Cable beach,
shopping in China town,
refreshments at one of the
many trendy cafes, bars and
restaurants, a fishing
charter, viewing the stair way
to the moon, the markets every
weekend, a massage at a day
spa, visiting the Malcolm
Douglas Croc park , Willy
creek pearl farm tours and so
on. All good stuff and a great
way to do Broome for a fly in
visit for a week or two.
Then there's our preferred
method.
Bring the 4WD and the boat.
You still get to do all of the
above and your options double
in the bargain.
Now you can drive to Willy
Creek, Barred Creek and Crab
creek to name a few. Take your
time and explore the area and
its environs. Collect shells
on a remote beach ( don't get
bogged or you will have to
call Woggy !!) or for that
matter, camp on a remote
beach. Flexibility and non
conformity is the way to go if
you can.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
Rugged shore
line at entrance point
|
A done up
pearl lugger cruising off
cable beach
|
|
|
|
It was a huge haul for us
from Gisborne Victoria. We
took the tinny with our new Oz
tent and found we could do
what we wanted when we wanted.
Over 6,000 Km's one way with
lots of side adventures. We
came across the Nullarbor to
Kalgoorlie, turned North and
headed through gold country.
It took us 10 days to get to
Broome with stops at Leonora,
Meekatharra and Newman for a
few days each. We fossicked on
the Nannine , Cue and
Meekatharra gold fields for
little gold return but found
many mementos of yesterday
including an 1865 threepence
miles from any known
settlement then or now. Goes
to show the amount of miles
the old diggers did in the
search for auriferous ground.
Great fun and great historical
areas.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
Me and my
mate Shag cleaning the catch.
|
Karen hooked
up to a beauty.
|
| |
|
|
It was beautiful Broome we
were headed for and we could
almost taste the Coral Trout
and the Blue lined Emperor
steaks on the BBQ, so we
pushed on. Our base at Broome
was at a mates place who was
away playing in the Simpson
desert.
We arrived via Port Headland
to find it was the start of
the school holidays. We were
thankful that we were staying
out of town on a few acres as
the place was insane. We have
never been here on school
holidays before and I can
assure you we never will
again. It was just too much.
If you arrived in Broome at
this time without a booking
you were in trouble. There was
not a room available and nor a
caravan plot in a park. The
local ovals were used as an
overflow and they were just
that, over flowing. We got out
of town as quickly as possible
and spent lazy days on
unpopulated beaches poking
around the back creeks netting
Mud crabs within 40 km's of
town. Hardly saw another soul.
After the school holiday
exodus, it was back to normal
so we hit the beaches and boat
ramps in town.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
Willy creek
pearl farm
|
Coconut well
estuary
|
| |
|
|
In the middle of town at town
beach, you can put your boat
in, turn left for a couple of
hundred yards and you are in
Dampier Creek. Its just
amazing. In season it is a
Mecca for Barra and where else
so close to a town can you get
a feed of mud crabs. Crocodile
creek runs off Dampier creek
and on the high tide is
accessible for some distance.
The mangroves are another
world and eco system that is
quite unique.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
Track out to
Willy Creek
|
Barred creek
estuary
|
| |
|
|
The further you can poke your
boat up the creeks the better
you will fare with the Mud
Crabs. We got a few good feeds
and had had what the locals
call, a few great seafood
"Cook Ups". Remember not to
have any protruding items on
your boats like Fishing rods
or antennae's. You will surely
break them amongst the
mangroves as you jockey for
position. Fresh fish frames
and lamb necks seemed to work
the best. There is strict size
limits and watch the tides as
you will be left high and
muddy if you don't get out in
time. Fishing at the mouths of
the creeks is also productive
whilst your nets are
attracting the muddies. Check
them every 20 minutes or so.
An hour or so each side of
high tide is all you have to
get in and out. Also watch for
crocodiles as up those tight
creeks is their territory.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
Big termite
mounds in the scrub - Barred
creek
|
Karen with a
cracker Fingermark
|
| |
|
|
Town beach is also the go to
place for the stair way to the
moon. This happens a couple of
times a month and coincides
with a low tide and a full
moon. The reflection of the
moon on the wet and shiny mud
flats is a spectacle you must
see. It is not unique to
Broome and in fact we saw the
same phenomenon at Port
Headland on the way up and we
had the event pretty much to
ourselves.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
Karen
collecting shells at Barred
Creek
|
Sunset and
Camels Cable Beach
|
| |
|
|
The ubiquitous camel ride on
cable beach seems a must for
most visitors. Personally I
cant see the attraction but
Karen loves Camels. There is
even a camel shop in China
Town which we seem to be
always in. We have that many
camels of all shapes and sizes
in our house it's not funny.
We also now seem to have a
never ending array of sea
shells. Karen now has a
mission to walk every inch of
every beach in search of new
and interesting sea shells. It
makes for some interesting
sand driving to get her there
and is all part of the fun.
We've read a few beachcombing
books over the years and we
reckon it wouldn't be such a
bad pastime. Especially with a
metal detector. I've seen some
pretty neat things come out of
the sand.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
The entrance
to the Malcolm Douglas Croc
farm
|
Port of
Broome
|
| |
|
|
Cable beach is an amazing
stretch of sand. Named so
because the submarine
Telegraph cable came ashore
here from Java. It starts at
Gantheaume Point and heads
North for miles. Gantheaume
Point and other places such as
Cape Leveque were named by the
French explorer Nicolas Baudin
in 1801. It's here you will
see 130-million-year-old
dinosaur footprints at very
low tides, Anastasia's Pool,
carved out of the stone by a
former lighthouse keeper to
allow his arthritic wife to
bathe in the salt water, are
also at Gantheaume Point .
|
| |
|
|
You cant imagine this
tranquil place being attacked
by the Japanese in the second
world war. Imagine being on
Cable beach as 8 Jap Zeros
roared across the top of the
sand dunes. They proceeded to
blitz all the stationary
aircraft both on land and the
sea planes in the Bay. Over
100 people were killed and
drowned by the Jap attack.
Broome was defenceless against
this attack but however
managed to shoot one down and
wing several others with 6 x
303 rifles and one machine gun
their only weapons. Most of
the planes lost were being
used to evacuate people out of
Indonesia fleeing the Jap
onslaught.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
Southern
side of Gantheaume point
|
Roebuck Bay
|
| |
|
|
The war years were difficult
for the Broome population.
When war was declared on
Japan, the Japanese were
interned. This proved an
extraordinary situation. Most
Japanese in Broome had been
born there or had been there
for decades. They were part of
the society. They out numbered
the whites several times over
and could of easily taken
over. They however went
quietly and understood. There
was no violence. Infact most
were well looked after in Jail
and were let out quite often
for special town events and
activities.
It was the pearl shell however
that galvanized the town into
existence. From the early days
of the 1860's when the large
oyster shell Pinctada maxima
was discovered, the industry
saw many changes. The luggers
owners were tough and ruthless
people. They used and abused
the aboriginals as conscripted
slave skindivers until the
advent of the hard hat diving
suit in the 1880's. The
Japanese were the best divers
and the head diver was royalty
in the town. The hard hats
made the deep water shell
accessible and the industry
boomed and the town of Broome
was declared in 1883 by
Fredrick Napier Broome the
Governor of Western Australia.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
The
Japanese cemetery in Broome
|
Bronze diver
statue China town.
|
| |
|
|
Threats by Japanese luggers
pre war and the war itself saw
a decline in the pearling
industry and the invention of
the plastic button sounded the
death knell.
Today Broome still thrives on
the pearl industry but in
cultivated south sea pearls
not shell. So you can see
there is plenty to check out
if you are a history buff.
Broome is an intoxicating
place. So your choice. Do it
at a resort with ambivalence
or sink your teeth into it and
share its rich cultural
history. Either way go and see
Broome.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
Love quartz
covered red dirt
|
Miners
cottage Gwalia
|
| |
|
|
Port Headland south of Broome
is really a mining town. It
caters for the mines and not
the traveller. As does Newman.
We found both towns rather
uninspiring and ridiculously
priced in all facets. The
country around Newman is
breathtaking in places with
rock holes gorges and the like
nearby. These places are on
the border of the fantastic
Pilbara and the start of the
amazing Kimberley and quite
frankly they can stay there.
We bee lined it back to
Meekatharra as we were to
spend a few more days gold
detecting and fossicking in
the bush. The days were great
but once the sun goes down
make sure you have a jacket or
two. Again we didn't get rich
from gold finds but managed to
find lots of interesting
things under the red soil. An
old clay pipe and some old
bottles were amongst our
treasures.
Both myself and Karen have a
passion for the old days and
in particular life of the
diggers on the goldfields. We
don't care for the mining
companies only the alluvial
gold seeker.
We do our homework and read
lots of books and generally
try to put ourselves where a
particular thing or event
occurred back in the 1890's.
So to find relics as suggested
means we were right where the
old boys were and at least
this time they were pretty
thorough on finding the gold
because we missed out!!
|
| |
|
|
|
|
These trucks
are massive. This one is at
Newman
|
What's left
of the Nannine railway
station.
|
| |
|
|
Western Australia in general
is amazing. The diverse South
with their great Kauri trees
to the tropical North and the
stunning Kimberley is a place
that can keep you occupied for
years. It just a bloody long
way away from Victoria. Every
state in Australia has great
places to go and see. Its got
me buggered why people bother
to go over seas when we have
all this in our own back yard.
We learn a lot from our
travels and always look
forward to getting back to the
factory to come up with new
ideas for product that from
experience we can see a need
for.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
What's left
of Baileys Island
|
What's left
of the explosives stockade ,
Nannine
|
| |
|
|
We also test products when we
are away to find out whether
they are indeed good stuff and
useable. If we cannot use them
and or break them, we sell and
promote them with confidence.
This trip proved to us that
the new Aluminium roof rack
which we had on the 200 series
was infact tough strong and
durable. It made little noise
at high speeds and had no
significant impact on diesel
usage. We did a few thousand
Km's of dirt and corrugated
roads and no stress fracturing
was again evident. We had
previously tested the
prototype rack last year in
the Kimberley and the same
result was great. These racks
are now released with
confidence that they will last
and do a great job for the
user. The fact they weigh just
26 kgs is another bonus.
We have always been a sheep
skin on bums people. This trip
however saw us testing the new
Black Widow Escape gear cotton
canvas seat covers. Amazing !!
If you have never sat on a
true set of pure cotton canvas
seat covers, you don't know
what you are missing. These
covers as opposed to the
synthetic canvas covers that
are the only ones available
until now, will be a god send
for sweaty bums Australia
wide. They breath, no static
build up , no shine and no
burned bums. We are converts
and it took a lot to get us
off the sheepskin.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
Typical
Murchison scrub country
|
Red dirt
everywhere north of Leonora
|
| |
|
|
Western Australia has reaped
vast riches from it mining
activities. I accept that.
However the mining companies
piss me off. They devastate
the country side and really
don't give a stuff about
cultural history and the
effect they have on the
environs. The photo of Baileys
island near Nanine is a
testament to that. Back in the
1890's it was a great gold
strike for the alluvial miner.
There was probably several
hundred men camped there,
digging holes with a pick and
shovel. Even in the 1980's
when gold detectors were first
available, people found good
gold with just a pick. When
the mines come in with huge
machinery and open cut a whole
area, there is nothing left.
Its all gone and then they
nick off and leave a huge hole
which fills with brackish
water and mounds of tailings
everywhere. Areas only mined
by alluvial pick and shovel
men revert back to natural
bush very quickly. It takes a
trained eye to even see where
they have been. Its our
history and should be sacred.
It annoys me when you read
about great things and can't
see them because a bloody mine
has destroyed it or put a
fence around it.
GGGGRRRRRRRHHH
|
| |
|
|
|
|
Gold country
Meekatharra
|
Love
that Iron stone and quartz,
Nannine
|
| |
|
|
Had my whinge now. Love
mining companies, they buy a
lot of Black Widow product.
Come see Australia, spend your
money on a well equipped 4WD
and you create the opportunity
to visit anywhere, except where
its "FENCED OFF"
See you on the road
Mark and Karen
|
| |
|
|
|
|
Sandstone
|
Meekatharra
|
| |
|